On November first, around 10 pm, we headed to the village cemeteries where people would hold their all-night vigils. We visited three different villages, and each cemetary was markedly distinct from the others. The first, in Cucuchucho was beautifully decorated and illuminated with thousands of candles. As we awkwardly traipsed over thier ancestors´ graves, the people there graciously greeted us and answered our questions.
In the second village of Tzurumutaro, the cemetery was much more humble. Nonetheless, people brought what they could, and whole families sat together throughout the night.
The last cemetery we visited was in the village of Ihuatzio, and this was the flashy, showcase graveyard. The ofrendas looked professionally arranged, and some families even had had structures built to house them. There was much more of a party atmosphere here and, as a touist, I felt much less out of place.
The following day, November 2nd, we visited the town of Santa Clara del Cobre and stopped by its gorgeous cemetery on the side of a hill. It was packed with people, and many families had contracted bands to play graveside.
I feel so lucky to have had the experience of witnessing first-hand this beautiful and respectful tradition.
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